Jordan is a kaleidoscope of history and a rich source of cultural heritage. The Hashemite Kingdom on the Arabian Peninsula captivates with its breathtaking beauty and natural grace. Along the trail of Lawrence of Arabia and Indiana Jones.
For many, the desert country of Jordan is the ideal gateway to get closer to the culture and people of the Middle East. Jordan is an incredibly open, liberal, and hospitable country that fascinates and continually surprises. While best known for the ancient caravan city of Petra, the Dead Sea, and the famed Wadi Rum with its dramatic rock formations and red sand dunes, Jordan is also a true culinary gem.
A Land with Ancient Roots
They all came and left their marks: the Nabataeans, Romans, Byzantines, and later the Ottomans. Twice the size of Switzerland, Jordan lies on one of the world’s oldest trade routes and has been home to numerous civilizations, with history dating back to 9,000 BC. In the 4th century BC, it was part of the empire of Alexander the Great. Later, the Nabataeans made Petra their capital. After Roman Emperor Trajan conquered the region in 106 AD, Jordan became part of the Roman province of Arabia. With the spread of Islam in the 7th century, the area came under Arab rule and later fell under various Islamic dynasties such as the Umayyads, Abbasids, and from the 16th century onward, the Ottomans. After World War I, the British administered the land as Transjordan until it gained full independence in 1946. Today, King Abdullah II, son of the famous King Hussein I, leads the country.
Amman and the Seven Hills
Dynamic, vibrant, cosmopolitan, and full of surprises. Named after the ancient Ammonite tribe, today’s Amman is a fascinating metropolis of contrasts. Across its neighborhoods, oriental charm blends with modern urban flair. Originally built on seven hills, the city has now spread across 19 hills and is home to around four million people. One of its most striking features is the uniform white of its buildings –facades all made of white limestone, giving the city an elegant aesthetic. Yet, splashes of color are everywhere. Unlike in other Arab countries, street art is not only permitted in Jordan – it’s encouraged. Beautiful murals tell stories and reflect the diversity of society. Rising above the rooftops is a massive national flag, standing at nearly 130 meters tall and visible from almost every corner of the capital.
A steep climb leads to the Citadel (Jabal Al-Qal’a), one of the highest hills in Amman and among the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. In the Bronze and Iron Ages, it was a fortified settlement. Later, it became the capital of the Ammonite kingdom, Rabbath-Ammon, and was home to palaces and defensive structures. Under Greek and Roman rule, the city was renamed Philadelphia. The Romans left a remarkable architectural legacy, including the majestic Temple of Hercules, dedicated to the son of Zeus. Today, the vast site impresses with its ruins from various eras and a breathtaking view of the city, as well as the Roman Theatre from the 2nd century AD, located in the eastern part of Amman and the largest monument of ancient Philadelphia. Surrounded by countless cultural treasures, it feels as if history is still alive on the Citadel.
Frankincense, Dates, Cardamom and a Hint of Nutmeg
A visit to the many markets (souks) in downtown Amman should be on every Jordan bucket list. Besides souks selling gold, antiques, and textiles, the spice market is a sensory delight. Spices are often described as the soul of a country – and in Jordan, that’s undoubtedly true. The narrow alleys are bustling with activity on this Monday morning, the locals push slightly dented shopping trolleys in front of them, tourists who imagine themselves to be in the Garden of Eden, and vendors who artfully arrange their products in gunnysacks and round bowls in perfectly matching colours. Haggling and buying are in full swing. Alongside the incredible variety of vegetables and fruits, the spice stalls, where you can find everything, the world has to offer, are an absolute highlight. Visitors can even mix their own custom blends – perfect as a souvenir or gift.
Jerash – A Journey Back to the Gladiators
For centuries, it lay hidden beneath the sand until it was discovered 70 years ago, then excavated and continuously restored. Located about 40 kilometers north of Amman, the city of Jerash is undoubtedly one of the best-preserved examples of Roman architecture. Founded during the Bronze Age under the name Gerasa, the city was relatively unknown in its early days but gained increasing fame and prosperity after the conquest of the region by Alexander the Great and later during Roman rule. Its significance grew so much that Roman Emperor Hadrian visited Jerash in 129/130 AD. In his honor, the citizens built a grand triumphal arch – 21 meters high and nearly 40 meters wide – that still bears his name today. This magnificent structure hints from afar at the splendor and glory of a bygone era.
Just behind Hadrian’s Arch lies the equally impressive Hippodrome. The 245-meter-long arena once held up to 15,000 spectators who gathered to watch thrilling chariot races. While strolling through the entrance tunnels (vomitaria) and the starting gates (carceres), a sudden warm gust of wind winding its way through the tall columns sparks the imagination – bringing the ancient city to life, if only for a moment. Gladiators preparing for battle, chariots restlessly awaiting the next race, and a roaring crowd scrambling for the best seats in the arena. What a spectacle it must have been in its heyday! Just a few steps further lies the next highlight – the Oval Forum. Built in the 2nd century AD from light-coloured limestone, this grand plaza with its soaring columns surprises with its unique egg-shaped design, a rarity in the Roman Empire. Once the echoes of gladiators fade from imagination, the journey continues to the Cardo Maximus – an 800-meter-long colonnaded street and the central artery of Jerash. Especially striking are the original paving stones, still visibly marked by the deep grooves left by ancient chariot wheels. Other must-see highlights in Jerash’s archaeological park include the Temple of Zeus, the Temple of Artemis, as well as the North and South Theatres. And then there’s even more… Jerash offers an endless array of sights and wonders, making it well worth dedicating four to five hours to explore.
Petra – Like from Another World
The legendary Petra is not only an important natural treasure, but also the pride of Jordan. Located in the Valley of Moses (Wadi Musa), this city carved into sandstone by the nomadic Nabataeans over 2,000 years ago has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985 and is counted among the New Seven Wonders of the World. And film enthusiasts, of course, will recognize Petra as the stunning backdrop for movies like Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen.
Located at the heart of ancient oriental trade routes, the vibrant metropolis of Petra was once a key hub along the 2,400-kilometre-long Incense Route, which stretched from the Arabian Peninsula through the desert to the Mediterranean. Camel caravans carried precious goods such as frankincense, myrrh, cinnamon, and saffron through Petra.
For a long time, however, the red rock city – with its impressive architecture and ingenious water channels, a true masterpiece of engineering – had fallen into oblivion. It was rediscovered in 1812 by Swiss explorer and orientalist Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. The son of a wealthy patrician family from Basel, he was the first European since the Crusades to lay eyes on the legendary ruins.
It’s well worth experiencing the breathtaking beauty of this ancient city at sunrise or just before sunset – pure magic! Good footwear is also highly recommended, as the walk through Petra, with its numerous side trails and elevated terraces, is uneven, rocky, and can easily stretch over 20 kilometers. Visitors enter the city through a narrow, steep gorge known as the Siq. The long, narrow path – just under two meters wide at its narrowest point – is flanked by towering rock walls rising up to 100 meters high, tinted in striking shades of brown, orange, and red. After a little more than a kilometer, the gorge suddenly opens up, revealing an awe-inspiring façade before your eyes. The 40-meter-high and 25-meter-wide, intricately carved «Treasury» (Khazneh al-Firaun) is a truly monumental sight. Flawlessly hewn from the rock, Bedouins once believed that a pharaoh’s treasure was hidden behind its grand façade. Later, researchers determined it was more likely the tomb of a Nabataean king.
The journey continues along the Street of Facades, which leads to many more remarkable sights, including the High Place of Sacrifice, the massive Roman Theatre, the Royal Tombs, and the Monastery of Al-Deir. The climb of over 800 steps is steep, but well worth the effort. The façade of the Monastery is impressive and bears a resemblance to that of the Treasury. Just a few meters beyond, a weathered sign points toward a viewpoint promising the «Best view of Jordan» – and it delivers. The mountain panorama surrounding Petra, with a distant view all the way to Israel, is absolutely breathtaking. And the icing on the cake awaits just above the viewpoint, in a kind of Bedouin-style tent, transformed by its owner – who somewhat looks like the actor Kabir Bedi from the film Sandokan – into a charming tea bar. The hot drink, which tastes deliciously of peppermint and cardamon, is a soothing reward after the strenuous climb and offers a welcome boost for the journey back.
British writer T.E. Lawrence — better known as Lawrence of Arabia — once said, «Petra is the most wonderful place in the world. To describe it would be impossible, for it is unlike anything else. » How true!
Wadi Rum – Of Desert Melons, Mushroom Rocks, and Camels
Full of enchantment and magic — divine and slightly surreal. Deserts have always fascinated – often quoted, best experienced firsthand. The 740-square-kilometer Wadi Rum in southern Jordan is a place of superlatives. Its spectacular landscape was formed around 30 million years ago, when rock formations from deep within the Earth were thrust to the surface. Today, sand, wind, and time continue to sculpt the massive sandstone and granite formations – and with a little imagination, they transform into stone figures that seem to tell their own stories. Known as the Valley of the Moon and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011, Wadi Rum was inhabited in prehistoric times, as evidenced by countless rock carvings and petroglyphs. Archaeological findings reveal that humans lived here more than 12,000 years ago. The Nabataeans, who also built Petra, left their mark as well, including ancient temples and inscriptions etched into the stone.
Wadi Rum is a paradise for adventure enthusiasts and can be explored in a variety of ways: hiking, climbing, camel or jeep safaris, sandboarding, or hot air balloon rides. An overnight stay in one of the numerous desert camps is an ideal introduction to the desert feeling. The Glamping Sun City Camp offers everything a desert lover could dream of. The comfortably furnished bubbles, each with its own bathroom and veranda, guarantee a feel-good atmosphere and stunning panoramic views of nature’s wonders. Watching the colours of the sunset unfold, immersing yourself in the magic of the desert, and embracing its healing silence is an unforgettable experience.
A jeep safari is a great way to feel the vastness of the desert and let the spectacular rock formations and dunes race past. During the journey, there is a feeling that time, as we perceive and define it, has no real meaning in this almost surreal place. Nature follows its own timeline, with its own rules. This feeling deepens at stops like the Burdah Rock Bridge, the Mushroom Rock, or the Seven Pillars of Wisdom – named after T.E. Lawrence’s famous book and immortalized in the epic film Lawrence of Arabia.
Past narrow canyons, bizarre rock formations, and dunes in every imaginable shade of red, yellow, and orange, unexpected signs of life suddenly appear. Hardy shrubs and the occasional palm tree seem to defy the dryness, while small desert melons are swept across the sand by the wind. A few camels lounge contentedly in the sand, enjoying a well-earned rest. A scene etched in memory forever.
Anyone looking to take a break during the impressive off-road tour can indulge in a delicious Bedouin-prepared lunch featuring local specialties. Naturally, the meal is cooked over an open fire. In the shade of a narrow canyon, guests experience the legendary Bedouin hospitality up close. A large, colorful, handwoven carpet and cozy floor cushions create the perfect setting for an unforgettable picnic experience.
Dead Sea – The Power of Salt
What do King Herod and the legendary Cleopatra of Egypt have in common? They both knew that not all salt is created equal. According to tradition, Herod the Great regularly bathed in the Dead Sea, while the Egyptian queen sent caravans specifically to collect its precious, healing salt for her beauty rituals.
In fact, the Dead Sea – covering nearly 900 square kilometers along Jordan’s border and lying 428 meters below sea level, making it one of the lowest points on Earth – is not actually a sea at all, but a hypersaline lake with no oxygen content. It is a strange sensation and a truly unique bathing experience: trying to swim normally in the Dead Sea quickly proves futile. A more successful approach is to slowly lie back and let the water do the work. With a salt content of up to 33 percent, it acts like a natural air mattress. Floating effortlessly in the warm water is incredibly elaxing. However, it’s best not to stay in for more than 20 minutes, as the high salt content can otherwise draw too much moisture from the body. Those seeking an extra boost for their skin can apply mineral-rich salt mud – usually provided by the hotel staff – over the entire body and allow it to dry under the warm sun. This natural wellness treatment leaves the skin feeling deeply cleansed, revitalized, and noticeably smoother.
The Dead Sea is one of the most striking natural landscapes in the world. Nevertheless, the hot desert climate and growing water scarcity are also taking a toll on this natural wonder. According to experts, the Dead Sea could disappear by 2050. It’s hard to imagine that this breathtaking phenomenon and its incredible serenity might soon exist only in memory.
Food like in Arabian Nights
Let’s get one thing straight: in Jordan, food is not just about satisfying hunger before rushing off to the next appointment. Here, eating is a social event – something to be celebrated. And ideally, it’s shared with many people gathered around one table. Alongside the Bedouin traditions, the many trade caravans that passed through from distant lands over the centuries left behind not only cultural but also culinary influences. Jordanian cuisine is a classic example of Levantine cooking – a culinary melting pot of the Eastern Mediterranean and an explosion of colors and flavors. Pomegranate, eggplant, cumin, cinnamon, sumac, za’atar, coriander, chili, harissa, sesame, and mint – these diverse spices, fruits, and herbs give the dishes their uniquely rich and unforgettable taste.
A typical Jordanian meal usually begins with a classic: the so-called mezzeh, often compared to Spanish tapas. A variety of small dishes arrive one after another in little bowls, accompanied by traditional flatbread. Hummus, vine leaves stuffed with rice, falafel, couscous with pomegranate, tomato salad, bulgur with fresh herbs, baba ganoush (eggplant dip), cucumber-mint yogurt dip, grilled vegetables, and goat cheese. And for those who still have room after all these appetizers, mansaf is not to be missed. Jordan’s national dish consists of tender lamb, fermented yogurt made from sheep’s milk, cooked rice, roasted nuts, and fresh parsley. To end on a sweet note, there’s baklava – a delicate pastry made of thin layers of dough and chopped nuts – or kunafa, a dessert made with fine pastry threads, sweet cheese, sugar syrup, and pistachios. Sahtain wa Afiyah – Enjoy your meal!
For more information: Visit Jordan
Travel suggestions
The Jordan Pass is the ultimate sightseeing package that has been especially tailor-made for visitors to the country.
Hotels:
- Amman: Fairmont Amman
- Petra: Petra Moon – Luxury Hotel
Restaurants:
- Amman: Majdoline Restaurant
- Madaba: Adonis Restaurant & Café
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