Watches & Wonders 2025 will once again bring many of the industry’s heavyweights to Geneva. More than 50 brands will show their latest models – from technical innovations and design developments to anniversary editions. Moments provides an overview.
A. Lange & Söhne presents several new models in Geneva, including an extension of the 1815 line and a minute repeater in platinum. Both models are a perfect balance of technical complexity and minimalist design. Chopard is presenting a selection from the L.U.C collection, including two limited editions: the Full Strike Revelation with a striking mechanism and the Heritage Moon 122 with a classic moon phase layout.
Bulgari & Cartier
Bulgari was part of Watches & Wonders for the first time this year – and the debut could hardly have been more striking. With the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, Bulgai is once again making a statement in terms of height, setting a new world record at just 1.85mm. With the Serpenti Aeterna, on the other hand, the Roman Maison presented a watch that is more sculpture than a timepiece: diamond-studded, curved, almost like a jewel with a movement. It was a conscious move towards the jewellery side of watchmaking – away from mechanics in the narrower sense and towards a more tangible, emotional expression of luxury.
Cartier also shows how much history can fit into a case. The Tank à Guichets, originally from the late 1920s, has been reinterpreted – this time in rose, yellow gold and platinum. No dial, no hands, but two small viewing windows. Discreet, almost secretive. It is a good example of how a brand can play with its past without falling into nostalgia.
Familiar, reimagined
Rolex is presenting a selection of revised models – including a new Land-Dweller, an Oyster Perpetual with a mint green dial and a version of the GMT-Master II. The modifications are subtle but deliberate. Tudor is taking the Pelagos Ultra deeper with new technical features – 1,000-metre water resistance, a new case format and functional details.
Anniversary with profile
Hublot is celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang with five new models. The spectrum ranges from classically striking aesthetics to materials such as carbon or sapphire. Piaget’s colourful ‘Andy Warhol Clou de Paris’ is a striking reference to its own design history. Van Cleef & Arpels continues to create narrative dials that are more stage than display.
Between limited complications, material experiments and design evolutions, this year’s Watches & Wonders paints a picture of the further development of watchmaking in Geneva – quiet, precise and with clearly differentiated approaches.
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