While Paris, London, Amsterdam or Milan struggle with overtourism, smaller cities such as Lyon, Manchester, Turin, Rotterdam or Izmir invite you to enjoy a more relaxed visit.
In Eric Ambler’s crime novel The Mask of Dimitrios, the trail disappears in old Smyrna — the former name of Izmir. No surprise: in the roaring twenties, this cosmopolitan “Pearl of the Levant” rivalled glamorous cities like Berlin or Paris. Greeks, Armenians, adventurers from across Europe, Ottomans and Jews turned the 3,000-year-old trading port on the eastern Aegean into a dazzling stage for spies and self-made millionaires, brothel owners, smugglers and intellectuals. The legendary shipowner Onassis was born here. Long before that, Smyrna — shaped by Ionian Greeks — was the home of Homer. A place rich in history yet always open to the new — this duality still defines Izmir today. Its reputation as Turkey’s most liberal and western-oriented city attracts open-minded people from across the country, including many from Istanbul.
City check
Izmir opens up towards the Aegean like a vast amphitheatre. Most key sights lie close to the waterfront promenade: in the elevated Namazgah district, the Agora from the 4th century BC impresses, expanded by Marcus Aurelius with Corinthian colonnades. The Archaeological Museum also reveals historical treasures, including the marble statue of the river god Kaystros from Ephesus. Life buzzes in the 1744 “Kızlarağası” caravanserai, the heart of the bazaar, where cafés line up around the former trading hub — including the famous “Şükrü Bey’in Yeri,” known for its charcoal-brewed coffee, perfect for a game of backgammon. For those seeking nature, the beaches and landscapes of the Çeşme peninsula are closer than from Istanbul. Izmir is also the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Ephesus. Less crowded still: Pergamon to the north, with its Upper and Lower Acropolis, the impressive Serapis Temple and the legendary Asklepion, an ancient medical centre.
Catch of the day
Izmir’s waterfront promenade stretches six kilometres. Its central section, the Kordon, is lined with sundowner spots and two of the city’s best restaurants: the elegant “Kordon Yengeç” is a favourite for fresh fish; just a few steps away, the traditional Anatolian restaurant “Tavaci Recep Usta” is famed for its lamb dishes. Waiters in traditional attire serve hearty specialties such as kaburga dolması (stuffed ribs) alongside freshly churned ayran.
The epicentre of nightlife is Alsancak — also one of Asia Minor’s trendiest bar districts. Narrow streets branching off the main Kibris-Şehitleri Street are lined with traditional wooden houses transformed into creative cafés and bars. Vintage spots like “Gülizar Kafe” (1483 Sokak No. 13) combine retro charm with old coffee traditions.
For a perfect sundowner in this beautifully located “second city” of Turkey, head to the end of the Dario Moreno Street: the historic 1907 elevator “Asansör” (from French ascenseur) takes night owls up to a panoramic terrace overlooking the bay.
Next door
Not far from the nightlife hub Mahal Bomonti Entertainment Arena, the stylish Canopy by Hilton Izmir Bomonti has recently opened. The philosophy of this upscale boutique lifestyle brand: strong local roots and design inspired by the surrounding neighbourhood.
