Pitti Uomo 108: Highlights from the largest men's fashion fair

Last week, the 108th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo – the world’s leading platform for men’s fashion – took place at the Fortezza di Basso in Florence. Here we present all the highlights from this gigantic trade fair.

It couldn’t have been any hotter, but even at almost 35 degrees, the fashion world in Florence remained resolutely cool during Pitti Uomo 108 – at least in terms of appearance, since even as temperatures soared, the fashionable trade fair visitors kept their blazers on. After all, there was a full programme and plenty to discover: Over 730 brands from all over the world were at the Fortezza di Basso to present their latest creations to the curious visitors.

While the highlight for industry insiders is the opportunity to talk to designers directly about their work, what the public eagerly awaits are the fashion shows by select guest designers, who make the business-focused trade fair a lot more glamorous and accessible. In addition to up-and-coming talent Niccolò Pasqualetti, the show by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake – the pleated menswear line by legendary Japanese designer Issey Miyake – was particularly impressive, paying homage to Italian aesthetics.

And what would a trip to Italy be without ice cream, pasta, and Aperol Spritz? In addition to fashion innovations, some labels also impressed with social and culinary events: Margaret Howell, together with the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT), invited guests to a relaxed afternoon accompanied by gelato and prosecco near the Arno – in keeping with the brand’s style identity, the pistachio green ice cream was particularly popular. Brunello Cucinelli kicked off the unofficial launch of men’s fashion week with an elegant dinner at Villa Bardini, where, as always, paccheri in tomato sauce was served. Tommy Hilfiger also made a comeback with an exclusive ​‘Hilfiger Social Club’, where guests were treated to an Aperol Spritz station as the American designer presented his new sartorial line.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

A few months ago, the brand announced that it would be moving away from Paris as the venue for the presentation of its new collections for the time being and focusing on changing international locations in the future. The spectacular presentation at Pitti Uomo 108 last week, where the brand was the guest of honour, served as the perfect starting point for the new strategy: In a Renaissance villa, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake showcased its iconic pleated looks inspired by Italian landscapes, colours, and textures – from lemons and linen to the pastel shades of the Cinque Terre. In tandem with the presentation, the Japanese label also hosted an exhibition focusing on the craftsmanship that goes into creating pleated fashion.

Niccolò Pasqualetti

Despite the scorching heat, Niccolò Pasqualetti impressed with his S/S 2026 collection presented on the roof of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino and featuring sophisticated deconstructed looks. Asymmetrically tailored suits, twisted poplin shirts, and sensual fabrics such as silk, linen, and cotton reflected his vision of fluid design. Inspired by ambiguity and the feeling of undressing, Pasqualetti created a poetic, modern reinterpretation of Italian craftsmanship – accompanied by the emotional soundtrack of the late artist Sophie.

Children of the Discordance

Hideaki Shikama’s label Children of the Discordance presented a rebellious S/S 2026 collection at the Stazione Leopolda, drawing on punk and patchwork influences. Despite their raw grunge aesthetic, the looks impressed with their elaborate workmanship and sophisticated details – such as short suits or mixes of paisley, graffiti, and bandana prints. The collection appeared both casual and powerful, sending out a confident message in uncertain times.

Post Archive Fashion

Korean label Post Archive Fashion (PAF) presented a modern, effortless reinterpretation of the classic suit at the Stazione Leopolda. With asymmetrical cuts and sporty elements, designers Dongjoon Lim and Sookyo Jeong made tailoring attractive for a new generation. Highlights included jackets with shoulder cut-outs, deconstructed trench coats, and soft hats – fashion that would not be out of place in everyday life, but with an avant-garde edge.

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