National Dishes from Our Favourite Holiday Destinations, Part 4: Panzanella

18 GaultMillau points, two Michelin stars, Rising Star of the Year in Ticino. Anyone familiar with Marco Campanellaknows that the German-Italian chef at La Brezza in the Eden Roc Hotel on Lake Maggiore usually operates at the highest culinary level. Which makes his choice of recipe for moments​.ch all the more surprising: no lobster extravaganza, no caviar creation, no technically complex fine-dining masterpiece. Instead, a Panzanella. 

A salad made from stale bread. One might call it a bold choice for a man currently leading one of Switzerland’s most successful kitchens. Or one might say that it is the most honest answer Marco Campanella could have given. ​“Panzanella represents the soul of Italian cuisine: creating something extraordinary from simple ingredients.” And that is precisely what matters to him. Behind the awards, points and stars stands a chef whose culinary roots were formed far away from fine dining. Not in luxury hotels, but around the family table. ​“The dishes that shaped me are the simple ones from my childhood. Fresh pasta, good olive oil, tomatoes from the garden and family meals shared together. That honesty and authenticity still accompany me today.” 

The history of Panzanella dates back to the 16th century. Originally, it was a traditional peasant dish from Tuscany. Instead of wasting food, stale bread was combined with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, basil and olive oil. Out of necessity emerged a dish that today can be found on menus all over the world. Perhaps that is exactly why Campanella is fascinated by this culinary icon. Although he now belongs to Europe’s culinary elite, he has never forgotten what food is truly about. ​“My culinary DNA consists of family, travel and teamwork. My family taught me that food brings people together. Travel broadened my horizons. And my team showed me that the greatest achievements are never accomplished alone.” It suits a chef who defines himself less through individual dishes than through a philosophy. When asked about a signature dish, Campanella almost dismisses the idea. ​“I don’t believe in a single signature dish. My philosophy is reflected in an attitude: respect for the product, clarity of flavour and emotion on the plate.” 

Emotion plays a greater role in his cooking than spectacular effects. New dishes often emerge from memories, travels or conversations with his team. That is also why he never sees cooking as an individual achievement. ​“A plate is never the work of a single person. It is the result of passion, trust, discipline and teamwork.” Perhaps that is the true secret of his success. While many top chefs continue to make their dishes increasingly complex, Campanella searches for the essential. He does not ask how many components a dish requires, but what story it tells. 

And Panzanella tells a particularly beautiful story. It speaks of summer afternoons in Italy. Of tomatoes that taste of sunshine. Of families gathered around a table. Of people creating something special from just a handful of ingredients. ​“Italy is part of my identity. My family roots are there, as are many of my most beautiful memories.” From a culinary perspective, Tuscany inspires him the most. Emotionally, however, he feels deeply connected to Puglia, his family’s homeland. Yet whether in southern Italy or on the Swiss shores of Lake Maggiore, food always represents something greater for Campanella.

Perhaps that is why Panzanella will never go out of fashion. It requires no elaborate staging and no complicated techniques. It simply exists: honest, uncomplicated and full of flavour. Or, as Marco Campanella himself puts it: ​“A dish becomes timeless when it is honest. Panzanella is a wonderful example of that.” Sometimes the greatest culinary truth is hidden in a piece of stale bread.

Panzanella by Marco Campanella

Recipe for 4 people

Ingredients

• 300 g stale Tuscan bread (Pane sciocco or rustic country bread)
• 600 g very ripe tomatoes (e.g. Cuore di Bue or San Marzano)
• 1 small red onion
• 1 small cucumber (optional, for a modern touch)
• 1 bunch fresh basil
• approx. 80 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 15 – 20 ml white wine vinegar
• Salt
• Optional: freshly ground black pepper 

Preparation

Bread – two textures

Break 150 g of the bread into large pieces, briefly soak it in cold water and squeeze it very well. Cut another 150 g of the bread into small cubes and let them air-dry or dry them briefly in the oven at 140°C (do not toast). 

Tomatoes

Cut two-thirds of the tomatoes into coarse cubes. Lightly crush the remaining third and reserve the juice. 

Vegetables

Finely slice the onion. If using cucumber, cut it into small pieces. 

Method

Place the softened bread in a large bowl. Add the tomato cubes and the reserved tomato juice. Add the onion, cucumber and roughly torn basil leaves. Season with olive oil, a small amount of white wine vinegar and salt. Mix everything gently, taking care not to crush the bread. 

Optional: Add capers or Taggiasca olives. This is no longer the classic version of Panzanella, but it tastes wonderful. 

Resting Time

Let the salad rest at room temperature for 20 – 30 minutes.

Finishing & Serving

Taste and adjust the seasoning — first with olive oil, then carefully balance the acidity. Fold in the dried bread cubes. Optionally add a small amount of freshly ground black pepper. Serve at room temperature. 

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