National Dishes of Our Favorite Holiday Destinations, Part 1: Wiener Schnitzel

Every country has a dish that is more than food: it is identity, ritual, memory. In our new series, ​“National Dishes of Europe,” we embark on a culinary journey across the continent, exploring exactly these iconic specialties. We begin where a golden slice of veal has become a cultural landmark: in Vienna.

There are certain experiences one must have at least once in Austria’s capital: the view from St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a walk along the Ringstrasse — and a schnitzel at Figlmüller. For more than 100 years, Viennese tavern culture has been preserved here — and continuously reinterpreted. Thomas Figlmüller speaks about how to protect culinary heritage without freezing it in time.

Your grandfather and your father made Wiener Schnitzel internationally famous. How do you strike the balance between icon and modern relevance?

For us, Wiener Schnitzel is not a museum piece; it is something alive. We have deep respect for our history, but we are convinced that tradition only survives when it exists in the present. We do not tamper with the schnitzel itself — it remains what made it famous.

Was there a specific moment when you and your brother decided to carry the legacy forward in your own way?

Yes. More than 20 years ago, when our father had to step back due to illness, we faced a decision: sell or take responsibility. At the time, we were a small operation with one inn and a seasonal wine tavern. We consciously chose not to replicate, but to continue the story — with our own signature. It was not always easy, but looking back, it was the most important decision we made.

Your schnitzel is world-famous. What lies at the heart of that success?

Not size, but consistency. Honest craftsmanship, the finest ingredients, and uncompromising quality — every single day. Origin and producers play a central role. Quality begins long before the kitchen.

Why isn’t Figlmüller present abroad yet?

We received international inquiries as early as the 1990s. At the time, we lacked the resources; later, we chose to proceed cautiously. I would not rule out that this may change one day. Whether near or far — the potential is certainly there.

On a personal note: when do you enjoy a schnitzel the most?

Almost every time I am in the kitchen, I taste one — that is lived quality control. In my private life, I enjoy it most in the countryside, far from daily routines, with time to savor it.

WORDRAP — quick questions, honest answers

Wiener Schnitzel: thin or thick?
Both have their place, but a thin schnitzel is simply finer, more tender, more elegant. That is where my heart clearly leans.

Breading or meat — what matters more?
Without perfect meat, there is no good schnitzel; without properly prepared breading, the same applies. The details make the difference: the freshness of the bread rolls, the eggs, how everything is handled — and of course the perfect crumbs from a Kaiser roll. One does not work without the other.

Schnitzel with ketchup or only with lingonberries?
I would never tell anyone how to eat their schnitzel. A touch of lingonberries works beautifully; ketchup is not really my thing. French fries without ketchup, however, are unthinkable. But that is another topic.

Don’t miss a thing — we’ll keep you up to date!

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