Federico's Pheasant Tagliatelle at Osteria Cuntitt

From traditional trattorias to fine-dining ristoranti, Italian cuisine has long found a home in Switzerland. Once again, the «Bella Italia» Restaurant Guide presented by Cornèrcard brings together a selection of restaurants that reflect the many ways Italian cooking is enjoyed across the country.

Alessandro Seralvo, CEO of Cornèrcard, was given a rare glimpse behind the scenes. At Enoteca Osteria Cuntitt in Ticino, he stepped out of the office and into the kitchen to learn from Federico Palladino.

More than a restaurant guide, «Bella Italia» is an invitation to discover Italy’s food culture. Alongside 150 restaurants, it turns the spotlight on the producers, regions and products that shape the country’s culinary identity — from wines, olive oils and cheeses to the specialities of Puglia, Tuscany, Umbria, Sardinia and Piedmont. The project comes to life in print, online and through events. Its distinctive pink pages pay tribute to the iconic Gazzetta dello Sport. Among the project’s partners is Cornèrcard, which has long supported initiatives centred on gastronomy, food culture and lifestyle.

In the snug kitchen of Enoteca Osteria Cuntitt, one figure in chef’s whites is not, strictly speaking, a member of the brigade. He is Alessandro Seralvo – Cornèrcard CEO, Bella Italia partner and keen home cook. The words «In Training» stand out on the immaculate white jacket he wears for the occasion. «You have to be willing to be the apprentice sometimes», he says with a smile. «To stay curious. To venture into the unknown, keep learning, persevere and never stop growing. Business is no different, of course.» Guiding him through the lesson is Federico Palladino, one of Ticino’s most accomplished chefs. Awarded 16 GaultMillau points, he is one of the region’s rising culinary stars. Palladino has high expectations of his guest. He places a loin of Ticino-raised Galloway beef on the chopping block and watches with curiosity to see what the Cornèrcard CEO makes of it. Seralvo approaches the task with complete concentration, carefully working the meat away from the bone and quickly earning his first words of praise. «Very neatly done», says Federico, clearly surprised. The chef even hands his apprentice his razor-sharp Japanese knife. Few compliments carry more weight. A chef rarely lets his knife out of his hands. «This knife has been with me for most of my life.»

The lesson is far from over. Next come the ovetto and the tagliatelle – both, naturally, in fine-dining form. «Poached eggs are where most home cooks come unstuck», Federico points out. Yet Seralvo handles the task with surprising ease. Four eggs. Three perfectly poached. And these are no ordinary eggs. They come from hens that roam through the vineyards around the village of Castel San Pietro. A splash of vinegar, three minutes in water that is hot – but not too hot – and they find their way into one of the menu’s signature amuse-bouches: ovetto, guanciale, curry and Sbrinz. One spoonful is never quite enough. Mention eggs and Federico Palladino is immediately reminded of the finest he has ever tasted. «At Schloss Schauenstein, with Andreas Caminada. Œufs Bénédicte for breakfast.»

Palladino knows his eggs. «They find their way into every menu in one form or another», he says. The homemade tagliatelle are a case in point, made with no fewer than 30 egg yolks – «30 tuorli». Another surprise awaits the chef-in-training: ragù bianco made with pheasant. A few minutes later, attention turns to the tagliatelle. Seralvo gives the pan a tentative shake, coaxing pasta and ragù together. «A little more confidence!» urges Federico, before finishing the dish with a generous shaving of summer truffle. It is currently the most sought-after dish at Osteria Cuntitt. To keep up with demand, Palladino orders three pheasants from France every week. Seralvo clearly enjoyed the lesson. «Federico trusted me from start to finish. He never made me feel under pressure. He works with passion and pays attention to every detail.» Does he see any parallels with his own professional life? «Absolutely», says the Cornèrcard CEO. «We, too, are always looking for ways to go the extra mile and exceed our customers’ expectations. Ordinary simply isn’t enough.» The Cornèrcard promise applies just as much to exceptional chefs: «Expect the unexpected!»

The hard work is over. Time to taste. A table awaits in the picturesque courtyard of Enoteca Osteria Cuntitt. The first bites set the tone: a crisp potato basket filled with scampi tartare, yuzu, leek mayonnaise and a touch of caviar. Valle Maggia bread-and-cheese croquettes. Focaccine sprinkled with Maldon salt. And a first homage to the Galloway beef raised in Breganzona, just outside Lugano. «I always buy the whole animal – all 300 kilos of it – from farmer Guido Bernasconi and make use of every cut», says Federico Palladino. «In an old butcher’s shop in Mendrisio, we also prepare the pastrami that I serve on a tartlet as a starter.» Finger food at its finest. The menu continues with trout from the Bremgarten fish farm, served with a Chardonnay reduction made from grapes grown in Castel San Pietro. The rest feels reassuringly familiar. We watched it take shape in the kitchen: tagliatelle with pheasant ragù, followed by Galloway fillet with white and green asparagus, fresh peas and a white port sauce. Spring on a plate. To finish, pea ice cream (!), yuzu, white chocolate and lemon balm.

More than an osteria. Run by Federico Palladino and his partner Nicole, it is also an enoteca. And this is where our visit continues. The first hint comes from the champagne list. Cuntitt is a Krug Ambassade, a title more commonly associated with the world’s great cities. Then there is the cellar. A few steps down into its cool stillness, a bright yellow armchair immediately catches the eye. «Sometimes, after service, I sit here with an old cookbook, turn a few pages and leave the day behind», says Palladino. One final piece of advice from GaultMillau? Don’t spend too long studying the menu. Order the Cuntitt Lover menu (seven courses, CHF 148) and leave room to be surprised.

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