The Carré as a Feminist Statement

Leather and silk accessories from Zurich, crafted in Italy, combined with a social mission: over the past ten years, Tanja Bernold has developed ZAHA into a brand that connects fashion with a clear sense of purpose.

A conversation about visibility, style and self-determination.

Tanja, we know each other from lifestyle journalism, and I’ve come across ZAHA through various media for quite some time. Yet I feel as though I’m only truly seeing the brand now. What has changed – in you and in the label?

The brand has become much closer to me as a woman and as an artist. With the move of my studio to Zurich and the launch of the Silk Squares in 2025, my feminist engagement also became more visible. What has accompanied me for many years now finds a stronger expression within the brand.

Where does the name ZAHA come from?

From the architect Zaha Hadid. Her role as a pioneer in a male-dominated discipline and her unmistakable design language have had a lasting influence on me.

You studied journalism, wrote for various media outlets and later became self-employed. Why?

Becoming self-employed was the logical step for me. I wanted to realise my own ideas and work independently. What started as a boutique with a cultural programme eventually developed into a passion for creating my own products.

Why are you particularly fascinated by silk scarves and belts?

Accessories can transform a look with just a few simple touches. I am fascinated by their creative power and their ability to make personality visible.

You describe the Silk Square as ​“emancipated understatement”. What does that mean?

Women are at the centre of my designs. Their portraits appear on the silk, yet when worn they often disappear behind colours and shapes. This creates a subtle approach to themes such as self-determination and visibility. With every Silk Square sold, I also support a feminist organisation. In 2027, this will be the Women’s Centre Zurich, which advocates for greater awareness of the gender data gap in medicine.

The silk carré is often regarded as a classic bourgeois accessory. Isn’t that a contradiction?

No. Fashion conveys messages. What interests me is precisely the tension between tradition and contemporary perspectives. That is where something new emerges.

How do your motifs come to life?

Through observations, books or engagement with female artists. Often a design begins with an idea that evolves further throughout the creative process.

Feminism and fashion can be polarising. How do you deal with that?

My commitment is not a strategy; it is part of my personal conviction. These issues matter to me, and therefore they naturally find their way into my work.

What impact would you like your designs to have?

I hope they inspire people to engage with fashion in a playful way while at the same time leaving room for their own interpretations.

Where do you see ZAHA in three years?

More international, more visible, and represented by personalities who authentically embody the values and aesthetic of the brand.

Your advice to young designers?

Build networks. Great ideas rarely emerge in isolation.

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